2008 Peter Terbush Memorial Outdoor Leadership Summit
June 8th-15th
Training, Curricula & Evaluation Information
Program Purpose
The purpose of the Summit is to train and evaluate students and professionals of higher education outdoor recreation programs in technical climbing skills including 3rd and 4th class alpine mountaineering (glacier skills not included), 5th class multiple pitch rock (5.11, Grade IV), or top rope rock. The professional level evaluation is equivalent to the objectives and standards of well known professional mountain guide associations. The student level is specifically designed for instructors of university based outings programs who will work under the close supervision of a professional director. The program seeks to develop the motivation, skills, and confidence required to serve others through servant leadership. The Summit aims to form a bridge between the average student and further professional training with well known professional mountain guide associations, but not to replace it.
Program Handbook
Each participant will leave the course with a comprehensive handbook detailing technical and leadership skills.
Skill Teaching & Training Methods
Summit training methods include intensive instruction and practice combined with written and practical proficiency testing. All training is based on the objectives outlined in the student handbook. All activities including testing outcomes are documented in the students handbook.
Training & Education Philosophy
The Summit seeks to fill a gap between the training opportunities available to the average college student and professional training programs such as the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). We believe the average student will not seek professional training by the well known mountain guide associations, and does not have access to high quality documented training and evaluation programs. The Summit program may be just the beginning of the formal training process for some leaders, thus we hope to form a bridge to more professional training in the future. The Summit actively promotes the training and certification programs of the well known mountain guide associations.
Evaluation Process
All Summit participants will be provided with a professional level evaluation in their skill area. This evaluation process is a valuable tool for the individual and for future employers. It is our intention to acurately assess each participant so that he or she can have a record of skills proficiency and areas that need further development. The course will begin with a self assessment process and end with a final evaluation with your instructor. All participants will get a certificate of course completion and an evaluation to take home to current or future employers.
Numeric Rating Protocol: Applies to All Evaluations
5 - Trainer level
(A perfect performance in all respects could be a trainer and tester of professional guides. Perfect performance)
4 - Full professional guide
(Professional guide skill level, depth of experience, and judgement, no more than one minor mistake and no major mistakes. Total comfort in guide role.)
3 - Student guide
(Would not pass professional testing but is competent to guide with close supervision. Several minor mistakes but no major mistakes. Some discomfort in guide role)
2 - Recreation proficiency
(Proficient in this area for personal pursuits, not guide level. Displayed one major mistake and several of minor mistakes. Serious discomfort in guide role)
1- Non proficient
(Unsafe even at a personal level, needs to drop back one major step in training)
Numeric Rating Protocol: Applies to All Evaluations
Objectives: Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing Instructor
General knowledge of equipment 1 2 3 4 5
Figure 8's and overhand knots 1 2 3 4 5
Bowlines, and butterfly knots 1 2 3 4 5
Friction hitches 1 2 3 4 5
Natural protection 1 2 3 4 5
Fixed protection 1 2 3 4 5
Passive protection 1 2 3 4 5
Active protection 1 2 3 4 5
Running protection 1 2 3 4 5
Equalization systems 1 2 3 4 5
Belay anchor systems 1 2 3 4 5
Belay device proficiency 1 2 3 4 5
(stitch, doublers, munter hitches, emergency, and automatic type)
Fifth class lead ability level : 5.___ 1 2 3 4 5
Fifth class lead speed/efficiency 1 2 3 4 5
Multiple clients, briefing 1 2 3 4 5
Multiple clients, climbing 1 2 3 4 5
Multiple clients, belay stance 1 2 3 4 5
Rope management 1 2 3 4 5
Route finding 1 2 3 4 5
Lowering clients 1 2 3 4 5
Multiple clients, rappelling 1 2 3 4 5
Third and fourth class guiding 1 2 3 4 5
Short roping/short pitching 1 2 3 4 5
2:1, 3:1, drop loop hoists 1 2 3 4 5
30 minute drill 1 2 3 4 5
Hazard evaluation 1 2 3 4 5
Safety briefing 1 2 3 4 5
Attention to clients health/wellbeing 1 2 3 4 5
Interpersonal and communication skill 1 2 3 4 5
Testing Protocol Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing Guide
Objectives: Third and Fourth Class Alpine Rock and Snow Mountaineering Instructor
General knowledge basic skills 1 2 3 4 5
(Map, compass, shelters, food, clothing etc.)
General knowledge of equipment 1 2 3 4 5
Figure 8's and overhand knots 1 2 3 4 5
Bowlines, and butterfly knots 1 2 3 4 5
Friction hitches 1 2 3 4 5
Natural protection 1 2 3 4 5
Fixed protection 1 2 3 4 5
Passive protection 1 2 3 4 5
Active protection 1 2 3 4 5
Running protection 1 2 3 4 5
Equalization systems 1 2 3 4 5
Belay anchor systems 1 2 3 4 5
Belay device proficiency 1 2 3 4 5
(stitch, doublers, munter hitches, emergency, and automatic type)
Fourth class lead ability level solid rock 1 2 3 4 5
Fourth class lead ability level loose rock 1 2 3 4 5
Multiple clients, briefing 1 2 3 4 5
Multiple clients, climbing 1 2 3 4 5
Multiple clients, belay stance 1 2 3 4 5
Rope management 1 2 3 4 5
Route finding 1 2 3 4 5
Lowering clients 1 2 3 4 5
Multiple clients, rappelling 1 2 3 4 5
Short roping/short pitching 1 2 3 4 5
Hazard evaluation 1 2 3 4 5
Snow climbing ability 1 2 3 4 5
Snow belay anchor proficiency 1 2 3 4 5
Snow running protection proficiency 1 2 3 4 5
Rock lead climbing ability 5.___ 1 2 3 4 5
Rock belay anchor proficiency 1 2 3 4 5
Rock running protection proficiency 1 2 3 4 5
Safety briefing 1 2 3 4 5
Attention to clients health/wellbeing 1 2 3 4 5
Interpersonal and communication skill 1 2 3 4 5
Objectives: Single Pitch Climbing Instructor
General knowledge of equipment 1 2 3 4 5
Figure 8's and overhand knots 1 2 3 4 5
Bowlines, and butterfly knots 1 2 3 4 5
Friction hitches 1 2 3 4 5
Natural protection 1 2 3 4 5
Fixed protection 1 2 3 4 5
Passive protection 1 2 3 4 5
Active protection 1 2 3 4 5
Running protection 1 2 3 4 5
Equalization systems 1 2 3 4 5
Belay anchor systems 1 2 3 4 5
Belay device proficiency 1 2 3 4 5
(stitch, doublers, munter hitches, emergency, and automatic type)
Belay stance 1 2 3 4 5
Rope management 1 2 3 4 5
Route finding 1 2 3 4 5
Lowering clients 1 2 3 4 5
Rappelling 1 2 3 4 5
2:1, 3:1, drop loop hoists 1 2 3 4 5
Hazard evaluation 1 2 3 4 5
Safety briefing 1 2 3 4 5
Attention to clients health/wellbeing 1 2 3 4 5
Interpersonal and communication skill 1 2 3 4 5